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<p>Contact: post@fc.hp.com</p>

<p>Mine were gifts, but I think they cost around $25-30 a pair.</p>

<p>This is probably more than you wanted to know but...</p>

<p>Chrysler makes some flat rubber flaps with the neon logo on them, but they
have some molded splash guards too.  They are molded to fit the neon body
shape.  That is what I got for Christmas.  The fronts are part number
82300550.  The rears are 82300551.</p>

<p>They ( fronts and rears ) have been on long enough now, that I know they are
pretty effective in keeping off mud, slush and dirt.  They are some kind of
black, thermoplastic rubber and I don't think they can be painted very well.
They look fair to good on a white coupe.</p>

<p>The following steps are what I did.  Don't get hurt, use common sense in
jacking and supporting the car.  If it falls on you, it can kill you or
remove important parts of your body.</p>

<p><b>FRONT SPLASH GUARDS</b></p>

<p>Below I have described two installation methods.</p>

<p>Be aware that the instructions and hardware contents are not correct for
later model neons, or at least not for our 96 ACR.  </p>

<p>The differences have to do with the instructions being for three fastener
mountings per splash guard, and you probably have four.  No matter, though.
They pack enough hardware and it is not rocket science to make do with what
they send.  For example, the required tool list is wrong, the Torx drive
fasteners ( T-25 ) already in your neon can probably be loosened with a
tight fitting hex wrench anyway.</p>

<p>By all means read and use their instructions as guidelines, it will give you
a clue.  You may need to re-use the old hardware on the lower holes because
the supplied hardware will pull through the holes in the fender liner and
splash guards and you won't get a firm mounting.</p>

<p>Generic Instructions For Front Splash Guards:</p>

<ol>
<li> Turn the steering full left to install left side splash guard and full
     right to install right splash guard.  This gives plenty of clearance.</li>

<li> Remove the stone guard, using a T-25 Torx bit or a tight fitting hex
     wrench.</li>

<li> Just above the fender holes where the stone guards mount are two more
     fasteners that secure the fender liner to the fender.</li>

<li> Carefully dig under the head of one and clip it off by using a sharp
     knife or diagonal cutters.  Then do the fourth hole above.</li>

<li> The splash guard is supposed to mount between the fender and the fender
     liner, so thoroughly clean the fender where it will mount.</li>

<li> Pull the liner away and fit the splash guard onto the fender.</li>

<li> Examine it closely for fit.  Don't forget to look from the rear.  Do
     the mounting holes line up?  Does its contour match the fender contour
     when the holes line up?  ( Mine did not ) Does it fit right up against
     the body?  If not, you may want to elongate the holes or trim the lower
     edge of the splash guard.  I had to do both.</li>
</ol>

<p>Existing Hardware Instructions ( when you don't want to use plastic
fasteners):</p>

<ul>
<li> Install the new fasteners to the upper two fender holes.  Spread them
     way open to minimize scraping the fender metal.</li>

<li> Locate the splash guard in position between the fender liner and the
     fender.</li>

<li> Install existing screws into the lower holes.  Their wider heads are
     necessary because of the larger holes in the fender liner.</li>

<li> Install new screws in the upper two holes</li>

<li> Turn the steering the other way to full lock and do the other side.</li>
</ul>

<p>There is another way.  (Only recommended if you won't be hitting any cones
at your local autocross  :-)</p>

<p>For the alternative method, I would recommend you do not use their spring
clips and either their hardware or your old hardware for the lower two
fasteners per instructions.  Instead, go to your local automotive supply
store and pick up some plastic fasteners like the ones it is implied you
have to clip off with a knife or side cutters.  ( Yes, the instructions are
THAT good!  :-)</p>

<p>The reason for that is that the supplied spring clips are very tough and
even if you do a good job spreading them, they will gouge right through the
paint, down to bare, shiny, deformed fender metal, leaving a nice place for
rust to start.  But plastic, expanding rivet type fasteners should leave
your paint intact.</p>

<p>The trick is to spread open the existing clips to take them off without
scraping the fender metal.</p>


<p>Plastic Fastener method:</p>

<ul>
<li>  Remove existing fasteners from the lower two holes in the fender.  To
      remove, spread them apart, or bend them open to minimize scraping the
      fender metal.</li>

<li>  Go to an automotive supply store and get some fasteners ( eight or
      more ) that closely resemble the ones Chrysler Corp.  uses in the
      upper two holes.  Use the hole size to try to get the right fasteners
      the first time.  :-) The lower holes in the fender liner are bigger
      than the upper holes.  Go for the largest size that will fit into the
      fender holes...you can always open the holes in the plastic.</li>

<li>  Follow the fastener directions and install the fasteners.  Remember,
      the splash guard goes between the fender liner and fender.</li>

<li>  Turn the steering the other way to full lock and do the other side.</li>
</ul>

<p>Either way, when they are installed, slather them well with Armorall.  That
makes them much easier to clean and the ice doesn't stick as much in the
winter.</p>

<p>N.B.:  While you have the fender liners detached, pull them away from the
fender and reach behind and make sure the area behind is free of dirt and
leaves that will trap moisture, accelerating body rust.  That area is a
small pocket formed by the bottom rear of the fender and the inner body.
Stuff tends to collect in there, and stays wet a long time, even here in the
semi arrid desert region of Colorado.</p>


<p><b>REAR SPLASH GUARDS</b></p>

<p>The rear instructions are also flawed in a similar way as the fronts, but
they are more straight forward and useful.  So, again, read them to get some
clues.</p>

<p>On our '96, I still needed the unmentioned T-25 Torx bit to remove existing
fasteners.</p>

<p>The splash guards mount to two existing holes that use the above mentioned
Torx fasteners to fasten the non metal rear bumper fascia to an under
structure that is also plastic.  You need to drill two new holes for the
other two lower mounting points.</p>

<p>The following steps are what I did.  Don't get hurt, use common sense in
jacking and supporting the car.  If it falls on you, it can kill you or
remove important parts of your body.</p>

<ol>
<li> Apply parking brake...hard.  Jack up the rear.  The owner's manual has
     jacking instruction.</li>

<li> Remove rear wheel</li>

<li> Remove the two existing fasteners, as mentioned in the instructions.
     We had to use a T-25 Torx bit on ours, but maybe a tight fitting hex
     wrench can be used.</li>

<li> Clean dirt, etc., from where the splash guard will mount ( read the
     instructions to get an idea.  )</li>

<li> Mount the splash guard at these two holes using the original fasteners,
     which are far more robust than the ones supplied with the splash
     guards.  Don't tighten the fasteners yet.</li>

<li> Test fit the splash guard to the contour of the fascia.  My holes did
     not line up when I positioned for best fit.  You may need to elongate
     the two upper mounting holes.  Elongate as needed.  I used a rough rat
     tail file and a knife to trim afterwards.</li>

<li> For each of the lower holes in the splash guard, use one hand on the
     inside of the fender to draw the fascia into the splash guard as far as
     it will go.  As the instructions say, get as tight a fit as possible.
     Mark a drill center.</li>

<li> Make sure your finger is clear of the opposite side of the mounting
     hole.  Use a 1/16 drill and drill a pilot hole for each of the lower
     fasteners, using the hole in the splash guard as a estimator.  Enlarge
     the hole to 1/8.  The instructions call for 3/32, but I think you will
     run into problems if you do.</li>

<li> Install two of the "biwax" fasteners that came with the splash guards.</li>

<li> Tighten the two original fasteners in the upper holes.</li>

<li> Install the wheel and tighten to specs.  ( Tighten in star pattern to
     80-100 ft-lbs torque. That's the Service Manual spec. )</li>

<li> Let down off of the supports and jacks.</li>

<li> Slather them well with Armorall.  That makes them much easier to clean
     and the ice doesn't stick as much in the winter.</li>
</ol>


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